Syrah, which the Australians call Shiraz, is originally a grape grown mainly in the southern regions of France – the Rhone in particular. Wines from the Côtes-du-Rhône and Rhone Valley are often blends of Syrah and Grenache whereas the prestigious Northern Rhone tends to focus on 100% Syrah. While each region and appellation produces wines that are different overall, think dark intense berry fruit, lots of spice and earthy or savoury characters.
While Shiraz, particularly the powerful, high alcohol wines of the Barossa do have a following in New Zealand, the Syrah produced here is closer to the elegant wines of the Rhone. The Syrah grape needs plenty of sunshine – in the Rhone many vineyards are planted along the slopes of the riverbank to get the added bonus of reflected sunshine. In New Zealand that means the most successful Syrah is in Auckland and Northland and of course in Hawkes Bay.
The maritime climate of much of the Hawkes Bay, with warm days, plenty of sunshine – and cooler sea breezes so the fruit isn’t over-cooked – produces wines with flavours of black and red plums and the distinctive Syrah marker of black pepper. In general these are wines which feel elegant and also refreshing – a long way from the sometimes jammy taste of the biggest Barossa Shiraz.
Syrah is sometimes blended with other grapes – in the Northern Rhone most often with the white grape Viognier which adds texture and depth. In Australia and in southern France and parts of the Rhone GSM blends – Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre – are common. While there is some Grenache being grown in New Zealand there are very few blends being made with it; one of the few of note being Waiheke vineyard Stonyridge “Pilgrim”. Syrah though is also sometimes used to make rosés – these tend to have a slightly orange colour in the glass and often a strong savoury, even slightly mushroomy note. And Syrah can be very successfully fortified – something a number of Hawkes Bay wineries have been doing to make NZ’s own version of port wine.
New Zealand Syrah, with its aromatics and slightly savoury edge is a great food wine. These are wines with flavours which are intense without being overpowering and which can sit comfortably beside strongly flavoured food – a glass of Syrah with BBQ meat, or bolognese is a great combination, or with strongly flavoured mushroom dishes; even a touch of truffle oil. But for a unique and rather perfect pairing try it with Peking duck – the plum flavours in the wine match the flavourful sauce and the spiciness works well with the duck.
